Two Go Down To The Sea

Until about an hour ago, when I waved Ben off down the windswept road leading out of Land’s End, it felt like we were just on holiday or had run away! To travel down through the counties of the South West on a sunny Tuesday afternoon, smelling the rapeseed fields and taking in all the lush green scenery just felt like the most wonderful escape, as if we’d broken out of Bristol and were off for a long weekend. Last night as we watched the sun go down over the Lizard it was easy to imagine staying on for a few more nights and that our purpose was only relaxing, not gearing up for a 9-day epic ride (or drive!) up the country. Henry’s campsite was even more colourful and unique than the website suggested. It felt like a bit of paradise, a tiny patch of Glastonbury Festival, but with palm trees and pigs.

We walked around the Lizard and saw the most southerly point of the country (Note to Land’s End- the tackiness/tourist mess is not necessary!!). Then we settled down to share a jug of ‘Old Rosie’ cider and grill some sausages. Any campsite that serves cold cider by the jugful gets my vote! The sunset and twilight were just beautiful and as the hazy sky cleared it revealed a stunning full moon. I was reminded of reading Famous Five adventures which took place when the moon was bright enough to see by. I had been thinking about smugglers when we’d walked round the coastline earlier in the evening and also when we’d passed signs for Jamaica Inn. Actually, many of the places we saw on signposts during the day were rather Blyton-esque: Fingle Bridge, Polyphant, Gweek, Magic Faraway Tree (ok, I made the last one up!).

Anyway, time to get the van on the road and stop writing postcards. I need to catch up with Ben near Bodmin and then head on to Okehampton and find our Travelodge. It’s easy to see how Land’s End used to be – a few cottages, an old hotel and incredibly dramatic scenery. It’s a shame that’s no longer enough. Last time I visited John O’Groats it was certainly no theme park, I’m hoping the intervening 14 (!) years haven’t taken it too far down the tacky route.

Souvenir of the day: 15p shell from a cottage at The Lizard
Best driving song: Week Off, Malcolm Middleton
Should be reading: Anything by Daphne Du Maurier